Date: 2010-11-04 07:19 pm (UTC)
Taken with a grain of salt in that when I was there I was trying to live and not be a tourist, and also that I was there in warmer weather when there were street festivals and flea markets and such...

The bar's really the main one that you shouldn't miss this time of year -- it's a little hard to find because the entrance is in Brasserie Lipp. Be warned that the place is tiny and can get VERY crowded on a weekend night, so arrive early!

I think you're a little early still for the Christmas Market in the main station -- and Google confirms that it won't be until later in November.

If you like walking around, there are the two sides of the Altstadt -- Rennweg around Lindenhof which has the more exepnsive stuff -- the whisky selection at the Widder Bar is second to none if you like scotch, and they used to have live jazz at night.

The more touristy but grittier side of the Altstadt is across the Limmat in Niederdorf. I'd recommend a couple of fondue places, but there's NOTHING celiac-friendly about fondue. Caberet Voltaire is there, though, if you have an interest in Dada. Other artsy things...there are some Marc Chagall stained-glass windows in Fraumünster, Kunsthaus Zürich is a nice museum, although small.

Clubwise...hmmm....I don't know what the club scene really is there anymore; Valser was OK, but small, there was another fun place called Meylenstein right up at the end of Line 4 at Bhf Tiefenbrunnen . Pur Pur (not too far from Niederdorf) was pretty good, although the DJ needed work. The very best club was some place in a basement along Langstrasse -- old school rap and motown, kids breakdancing, etc. We were there my last night up until about 6 in the morning and I've unfortunately forgotten the name of it (Langstrasse is also the red light district; forewarned is half an octopus).

I'll have to go through my old LJ entries and Flickr pics and see what else comes to mind.
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