rm ([personal profile] rm) wrote2004-11-13 06:11 pm

elitist tirades about fashion and shopping

So, on a whim I went up to H&M, after reading about the absolute frenzy over the Karl Lagerfeld stuff there when it debuted yesterday.

I bought myself the nicest tie I have ever owned, a leather and silver lanyard (comment, and die), and fretted over a quasi-tailcoat jacket (not from the Lagerfeld collection) that I ultimately didn't buy because the size wasn't quite right (one smaller would do me perfectly, but alas, it was not to be).

In the process of doing this, I also fretted over the annoyance of, as a woman, buying shirts. The Lagerfeld collection has several really lovely tuxedo shirts in men's and women's varieties. All of them have the sort of high, hard collar that is very very hard to find on women's shirts, and this made me want to splurge and get one. Here's the thing though -- the collar on the men's shirts was detachable (and not with an ugly button, but with a perfect little piece of brushed metal), allowing you to wear the shirt in two ways and lending an exceptional bit of archaic tailoring to the item, and I would have bought one in a heartbeat had it a prayer in hell of fitting me. The collars _have_ to fit right on these sort of shirts though, or they don't work, and the smallest neck was a 15, mine's less than 13, so that's a non-starter.

The women's shirts? Identical, except for little fabric buttons as opposed to brushed metal (grrr) and more importantly, the bloody collar wasn't detachable! And what I want to know is why? Would this be unappealing to women, or just so foreign we wouldn't know what to do with it? Really, it was a lovely shirt, and the collar was pretty damn nice, but seeing what I couldn't have right next to it, I couldn't bring myself to buy it. The rest of the women's stuff in the line was all very soft, classically inspired dresses, which I know is the thing right now, and as little miss Regency geek should appeal to me, but they don't in my actual modern life.

But Karl, what the fuck? Inquiring minds want to know. If I knew where to write you a letter, I would. Because as annoyed as I am, I'm also really curious as to the answer.

When I get rich, my first act will be to find myself a tailor, because this shit drives me insane.

Now, to digress into further snobbery and agitation. Until you've shopped at Bergdorf Goodman's you don't understand civilized consumption. I realize this is not a virtue to many of you, and I hardly view consumerism as the great modern achievement, which is actually, oddly sort of my point here. But before I get to that, let's be clear about a few things, since I can't ever talk about class issues without getting flamed.

I've seen things I was never supposed to see. With my lack of station and wealth, I shouldn't know about the worlds I do. But I do. I know full well that at best I am the unpleasant dandy who says amusing and cruel things so as to be invited to dinner parties with finer food than s/he can afford. This does not, despite my general tone about it, overwhelm me with joy. But there is a world out there I will not relinquish, and more importantly, it seems disinclined to relinquish me.

Now. Let's talk about Bergdorf's where, alas, I was not today. Bergdorf's is civilized. Quiet. Expensive. A multitude of small boutiques within a single department store. Personalized attention. Seating, assistance. Very nice carpets. Lighting that flatters. Tea if you need it. Bergdorf's is a way of life, and while there are few things I can afford in it, honestly, I feel like a happier more beautiful, elegant and civilized person if I can stroll through there once a month. You should try it. Dress up and go shopping. Don't spend a cent. You'll love it.

Now, shopping in the mortal world you and I actually inhabit. I hate it. Now, don't get me wrong. I am queen of the bargain hunters and unbelieveable at finding and repurposing things to my own style. But Lord do I hate the other shoppers, especially in Herald Sqaure and especially this time of year.

A few points:

1. Congratualtions, you're on a class trip to New York. If you're going to act like you're better than other people, you must be prepared with an actual answer for the question "what makes you think you're better than me?" If you stammer, you lose.

2. Congratulations, you're still on your class trip. Guess what? A pack of thirty of you in a store, hellbent on moving as a pack isn't just unaccpetable, it's impossible. So when someone excuses themselves and slips between you to get to the otherside of the store, DO NOT CURSE THEM OUT.

3. Do not bring open food and beverage in the store and then proceed to get it on me.

4. Do not push me or grab at garments or my person.

5. If you are not planning to purchase anything, congregating at the end of the checkout line with your open food and beverage you're about to spill on me is a bad idea.

6. Screeching is never, ever sophisticated.

7. Remember how your mother told you not to talk about sex, religion or politics? Well despite everything I do here, she was right. Don't talk about it shopping, because hello, watching the fist fight with the social-climbing Bush supporter by the evening capes? Less fun than you would think.

8. Shopping is an opportunity to be curious and amused. It is not a mission from God, a birthright, or an opportunity to hit people or feel them up while blaming it on the crowds.

9. While it is inappropriate to grab your own genitals in public, it is, in fact, even more inappropriate to grab the genitals of your boyfriend or girlfriend in public. So don't. P.S., cock is not a fashion accessory.

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaargh!

Now that all of that has been said, let me just say, that me and my little historical military / new romantic sort of look I've had going on for ages and ages? so about to happen fashion-wise. And I'm so pleased, only so people who give me grief about the pants tucked into the boots have to realize that I was, as ever, ultimately right. Goddamn.

[identity profile] feyandstrange.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 03:52 pm (UTC)(link)
(sigh)
I miss civilized shopping. I'd adore a Bergdorf's. I miss Harrods dearly.

And I dream about custom tailoring from a proper men's tailor. Someday, I'll have the suit and the shirts.

What wretched critters! I'm sorry they were in the same store. Or even in the same state.

And what a wonderful look it is! Glee!

[identity profile] rm.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 04:37 pm (UTC)(link)
Berdorf's also is the only place in NYC to get some of the best chocolate in the world. In fact, I should do a whole chocolate snobbery post.

[identity profile] rosemarymint.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 05:41 pm (UTC)(link)
Please do. Chocolate snobbery is much needed!

[identity profile] rezendi.livejournal.com 2004-11-14 02:27 am (UTC)(link)
There's a Fauchon in NYC, no?

[identity profile] 00goddess.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 04:09 pm (UTC)(link)
I love new romantic, and I am so glad it's coming back. I still have a lot of my clothes from early high school, but they don't fit me anymore. I love that look- the androgyny, the interest, the fabrics the way it approaches living in costume. And it has been so hard to find such clothes, for years now. What's a girl to do when she wants to dress like an Edwardian boy?

[identity profile] rm.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 04:15 pm (UTC)(link)
Go to H&M, apparently. I swear, I'm going to _every_ H&M in town in hopes of finding this jacket in my size.

[identity profile] 00goddess.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 04:20 pm (UTC)(link)
We don't have H&M here- I believe they are only East Coast. And their website is for shit. I'll be in DC next summer and I'll have to make a side trip. I really miss vests.

[identity profile] rm.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 04:24 pm (UTC)(link)
Their website is evil.

And they always have _tons_ of vests. And they actually fit. The one thing I will warn you of is their garments are _extremely_ narrow acorss the back -- their stuff poses size issues for a lot of people I know.

[identity profile] 00goddess.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 04:21 pm (UTC)(link)
Although, some of the fun will be gone if everyone is wearing what I like to wear.

[identity profile] rm.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 04:30 pm (UTC)(link)
True, but I think the brilliance of the New Romantic sort of look is that no one can ever be wearing the same exact thing as anyone else, because it's so much about lawyering and great finds and weird fabrics and odd reinterpretations of things.

[identity profile] tsarina.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 04:27 pm (UTC)(link)
Fistfight?!?! Whiskey Tango Foxtrot?

[identity profile] rm.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 04:29 pm (UTC)(link)
You so always go for the violence.

And indeed.

[identity profile] tsarina.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 04:33 pm (UTC)(link)
Bwahahahahahah. But the image, it's just so hilarious.

Luci would be appalled. Meier would be terrified. Anna would shoot them both and go buy a new shirt.

[identity profile] sdn.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 04:27 pm (UTC)(link)
oh my god. this shopping trip sounds like a nightmare. i am sorry.

what do you think of henri bendel?

also, what do you think of j. peterman, where i seem to spend way too much money?

[identity profile] rm.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 04:29 pm (UTC)(link)
Not only do I love Bendel's, but when my father was first working in New York, he used to do windows for them, a very, very long time ago.

And I have a gorgeous cloak somewhere from j. peterman, although if they have actual stores, I've never been in one.

[identity profile] sdn.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 04:31 pm (UTC)(link)
i have a credit card i've never used. HMMMMM

peterman used to have stores, which was one of the reasons they had to file chapter 11. now they're solvent again and only on the internet and in catalogs.

they have some gorgeous military-themed jackets on occasion.

[identity profile] schpahky.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 07:34 pm (UTC)(link)
I so want that quasi-tailcoat jacket, we have it here. Experience has taught me though that when I buy things like that they just end up in the Fantasy Life pile and don't get seen. I love jackets but have to force myself to wear them.

The Guest bought an old blue military jacket last weekend that looks like a bellhop uniform. I'm jealous that he will have a show to wear it in. But I, I bought 1960's Navy-issue wool men's sailor pants! with the one million buttons in front, and as soon as I get them cleaned and hemmed I will be the warmest girl here, although they give me an hourglass figure because of the high waist and corset back and that's a little unfamiliar. Did you know men's sailor pants had a corset back? I didn't.

Anyway, end of clothing geek. I've been avoiding the H&M here because it is constantly packed with screeching schoolgirls.

[identity profile] rm.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 07:37 pm (UTC)(link)
If you see it in a size four, tell me. ;)

FYI, it looks hot as shit with jeans. Oddly easy to integrate with real life. Also have you seen the sleeve lining? It's brilliant and striped and it's all about rolling the sleeves up.

And here it's filled with screeching school girls looking at the lingerie and complaining it's not ghetto fabulous enough.

[identity profile] schpahky.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 07:47 pm (UTC)(link)
I'll snag it if I see it, our store seems to have nothing but fours so you may be in luck. I usually circle back to fondle things there I want anyway. The sleeve lining is fabulous, yes, speaking of fondling. This is all about my secret desire to be Groucho Marx, or at least, to be a comedian and wear his swallowtail coat and dazzle people with wit. Yet, be a woman and all that. All right, at 14 I didn't care about the woman thing. But I'm 30 now, thank god.

I'm maybe overestimating how much my life will change once I start grad school but, small triumph, no more corporate uniform to bend.

[identity profile] rm.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 07:50 pm (UTC)(link)
I think the jacket might look painfully proper with a long skirt... in an anachronistic way that would weird people out. Anyway, if you find it, I'll paypal you immediately. It's just so brilliant. I really hemmed and hawed about getting it a size too big and just coping.

[identity profile] schpahky.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 07:55 pm (UTC)(link)
I am cackling about anachronistically weirding people out. I have a long high-waisted black wool skirt, tall lace-up boots, this could be frightening, and I'm not sure in a good way, which might be good in itself.

Also, this jacket is absolutely not about coping, so yes, I'll look. Hopefully the Karl Lagerfield frenzy will have subsided by Monday afternoon.

[identity profile] rm.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 07:57 pm (UTC)(link)
Well, it's all sold out (and now on Ebay) so I think so. I'm really on a mission to write to him about those shirts. It's so exactly odd I think I might even get an answer.

[identity profile] delchi.livejournal.com 2004-11-13 07:40 pm (UTC)(link)
When I get rich, my first act will be to find myself a tailor, because this shit drives me insane.

Luigis , down on 7th avenue ( hell I'll look it up, its more downtown than midtown. Somewhere near FIT )

They did all my custom work back in the day ( rememebr that tux I had ? )

They were not cheap, but they do alot of knockoffs and imitations quite cheaply.