[personal profile] rm
So today was Cardiff.

Originally, the plan was that I was going to go to Cardiff by myself one day while Patty was at her conference (that is, after all, why we're here, she's delivering a paper on Friday), but then she came home one day and said there was a thing she needed to learn and there were only three places she could do it and she really thought the other two were more likely but the third was -- and you'll never guess where -- Cardiff.

From that moment on I was pretty sure Cardiff was going to be the lucky winner, and so it's turned out to be the case. My private pilgrimage turned into Patty and I taking the (really quite confusing to purchase a ticket) train together to Cardiff and then each of us walking in a different direction: her towards the university and me towards Mermaid Quay.

The area you have to walk through to get to the Quay is sort of crap. That's all right though. I spent a lot of time in crap seaside towns as a child (hell, we spent a rainy summer weekend in one last year), and I felt more or less fond of it right off.

So the plan was, get to Mermaid Quay, ensconce myself in a Starbucks, do work (this is a working trip for me) and then see some stuff before meeting Patty at six.

You already got my initial This Is So Weird, and in truth, it didn't get a lot less weird. I wound up talking on Google chat with Jill for a while, who was suitably amused by my various forms of flailing (i.e., "I packed poorly and it's cold so I'm wearing my pinstripe suit jacket over jeans and a girly t-shirt and now I feel like an asshole!"), getting crap done, and eventually forcing myself to go down to the memorial thing.

I felt really self-conscious about it, and in the end, I can pretty safely say this was neither quite fannish embarrassment or genuine grief, but something older in me, a sense of sin for giving a shit about anything no matter what it's about. Even my parents always told me I was a cry-baby, and the people who are kindest to me are those who help me give myself permission to be as acutely permeable as I am.

There were people down there, too, which sort of sucked. A family with a couple of kids that had come to see the Doctor Who exhibition and other sites for the day. The long-haired father tried to pose heroically in front of the memorial, but only after I heard him remark to a pair of girls sitting on a bench near it that he hadn't watched the third series yet, that it was waiting on DVD at home, and he supposed this meant that Ianto had died. All in all, he seemed a bit sanguine and puzzled about it -- not the memorial, but Ianto, being dead.

Anyway, I couldn't really bear it for long. It wasn't for me I decided, and after watching the lone swan that kept coming up by the dock and harassing people, I went over to the Millennium Center and the Plass.

It's really a ridiculous thing. Because it rises up out of nowhere, more or less, and it's massive, imposing architecture that makes no sense adjacent either to the rather minor mall-like stuff at the Quay or to the shit housing along Bute Street. But you can't see it, can't say those words -- in these stones, horizons sing -- and not get a bit of a chill. At least, if you're me.

And that's not about Torchwood, that's about stories. And texture. And the way words are the bare, miserable edge of narrative.

I had a button in my coat. One of the original buttons from my Jack coat. I cut them all off when I got it last year, because they were silver in tone, and therefore wrong, and they've been scattered on Patty's desk since. In sweeping up the jewelry she wanted to bring on this trip (Patty enjoys being a girl), she swept up one of the buttons.

I noticed it yesterday on the desk in our hotel room, and I commented on it. She apologized.

"No, no," I said, "it's good."

And it was, because I thought, how can I go to Cardiff and not leave something at that damn tourist office memorial? Except, then when I was there, and I couldn't.

By the Millennium Center and the metal column with the water that theoretically extends down into the Rift pool is an open hole in the ground of the same shape. It's fenced off, and you look down, and it's full of running water and coins; a wishing well. And that seemed right, so instead of pence or pennies, I threw the button in and won't tell you what I wished for, because those are the rules, and I've some pride besides.

I felt lighter after that. Things were easier, and I sat on the steps of the Plass and checked my email and watched a little blond-haired boy kick a soccer ball around. He was about seven and was wearing a red and blue striped rugby shirt. And yeah, that was about like you'd expect.

When I got up to go to the Tesco (I wanted a snack and I wanted to go to the Tesco), he'd made a bad but strong kick, and it had gone way far away from him. He was running towards it (me) but kept pausing and frowning. Oh! I was supposed to kick it to him! So I tried when he finally put his hands on his hips and waited, but it went crazy left and not very far.

"Sorry," I shouted. "American!" I added with a shrug.

On the way to the Tesco, I found Patty, who was over an hour early for our rendezvous.

"You're early," I said.

"I have been walking over two hours."

"How? It should be a straight shot."

"I went around a lake full of swans."

She sat on a bench while I ran into the Tesco, and when I first skidded into it, I sort of had this moment of paralysis, because yeah, that's it, just right, just like in my head. But then I got chips and soda and ran back out to her just in time to watch a feminine creature of extreme artifice stroll down the street in a black tank top, black booty shorts that said FUCK ME across the ass and platform high-heels with stiletto heels.

Did I mention it was like 50 degrees today?

"Oh my," Patty said.

"Fuck me," I repeated dully.

"Did you see the shorts?"

"Yes."

"I want Welsh Cakes."

"What?"

There was a store selling Welsh cakes. I followed Patty in dutifully, assuming this would not be for me, but they had gluten-free ones too, and they were AMAZING. I ran back later to buy a whole bunch and the proprietress told us about a tea shop in Roath with lots of gluten-free stuff, so we'll go when Patty is here in the fall.

After, Patty somehow led me back down to the Tourist Office memorial thing, and we looked at all the stuff and talked about it.

"Is the blip in time thing something from the show?"

"Yeah. From the death scene."

"The paper cranes are nice."

"Yeah."

"He was only a year younger than me."

"I know."

"I like this one," she said, and it was just a scrap of paper that said Bye now.

I took photos of a few items that might get mentioned in my paper, and we watched a couple of fannish queer chicks (was that you? did you have a Cyberman etch-a-sketch?) canoodle in front of the thing, which I still hated (the thing, not the chicks), albeit differently.

We walked off arm in arm to look at our dinner choices and eventually settled on a pub. After we ate, we walked back towards the city center and around a bit. Ah, here was the rest of Cardiff, and I liked it very much and immediately without conflict or reservation or echo, although I could also (thankfully, in truth) find all those things in it if I concentrated even a little.

It was good, and then it was time to go home. We had our photo taken in the photo booth in the train station and then I watched a loud, loud girl miss her train to Newport while Patty was in the bathroom.

I'm writing this on the train now, and there are a few photos on Patty's camera I'll post eventually. I did what I needed to do, and that's what I was here for.

Patty and I laughed all along our walk as she told me about meeting with the housing office of the University, because compared to New York, the rents are nothing. And yes, she knows not to wire money ahead for an apartment she hasn't even seen. And, really? she bets she can get a lot of Cardiff neighborhood information from the Internet

"Totally!" I said, "Although it'll all be, 'okay, but Grangetown is where Jack owned that fucked up house that got haunted and then started being all House of Leaves, so you might find that a little creepy.'"

And she laughed and elbowed me and made another Dead Ianto joke while a big fat hunting cat in a yard filled with litter looked up at the sky and thought extra hard about how to bring down a seagull. We paused to watch him, and he stared at us a long time until another seagull cawed, and he looked up again, dreaming of London.

Date: 2010-04-12 10:12 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] miscellanny.livejournal.com
This post was rather lovely to read and made me nostalgic - not been back in Cardiff for too long, after living there for four years during/after Uni. Have you heard the Karl Jenkins music written for the opening of the Millennium Center? It's suitably epic. :D

Date: 2010-04-13 08:45 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
Thanks.

I haven't, but it's looming on YouTube for me, once Patty is awake.

Date: 2010-04-12 10:18 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] paragraphs.livejournal.com
Enjoyed this post tons. You have captured the Cardiff we saw! Maybe even the park Patty found herself in, Roath Park, which is beautiful.

Date: 2010-04-12 10:24 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] miscellanny.livejournal.com
Ooh, I love Roath Park! Cardiff is amazing for parks, Bute Park is stunning too.

Date: 2010-04-12 10:28 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] amand-r.livejournal.com
omg I miss Cardiff.

Date: 2010-04-13 07:43 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
Thanks.

I don't think it was Roath Park. I think she followed a sign to the Bay thinking that would take her down Bute Street, but it didn't. She said there were signs it was a fishery and the lake was square?

Date: 2010-04-12 10:24 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] eumelia.livejournal.com
I want to be there. I wonder how long the memorial can hold. I doubt I'll be able to go overseas over the next year or so.

This post made me both jealous and haunted, I dunno, I envy anyone who has gone there, who knows those places, but I'm kind of apprehensive about knowing those places myself - in a way, I kind of want them to be in a universe around the corner, rather than a place I can visit. Maybe that makes me an arse, I dunno...

Date: 2010-04-13 08:26 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
I think how long the memorial will be there depends on a few things, including the future need of that location for shooting (Torchwood or anything else), what people put up for the year anniversary, and how much attention it gets through the cold and wet of winter that keeps it going. If it gets through this winter, I imagine its presence might be quite long.

The relevant sights look very different in person than it does on TV or even in photos.
Edited Date: 2010-04-13 08:27 am (UTC)

Date: 2010-04-12 10:26 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] tree00faery.livejournal.com
For some reason, there's something in me that doesn't quite comprehend the fact that *other people* have been to the same places that I have, seen the same buildings, been in the same freaking Welsh cake shop, felt the same nostalgia for a place we've neither lived.

And yet, there you are. If anything you've more of a right to the city than I do.

*thinky thoughts*

Date: 2010-04-13 03:15 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] paragraphs.livejournal.com
Aren't those Welsh cakes awesome?

Date: 2010-04-13 03:18 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] tree00faery.livejournal.com
How strange (and yet totally not) that you've had them too! (My brain is like, "Wait, there are other people in the world?" :P)

But yeah, they were amazingly delicious. I bought like a million. And by a million I mean five.

Date: 2010-04-13 03:28 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] paragraphs.livejournal.com
I bought some to take home to the kids, the last time we were there, we mailed some to [livejournal.com profile] 51stcenturyfox. So she's had them too. Nick is not a fan of them, the silly. I also bought some of the Welsh salt--really lovely salt, that. I don't use salt much so this is perfect.

Wish I had a lemon Welshcake right now...

Date: 2010-04-13 03:32 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] tree00faery.livejournal.com
I thought about buying some to take home, but after Cardiff I was off to Skye, and I didn't think that they'd make it, going through the airports at Bristol and Glasgow and then taxis and rental cars and boats.

Date: 2010-04-13 11:36 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
Well, that I'll have Patty there soon changes things. Otherwise, I'm just another person stuck in a story that isn't precisely my own.

And I too found it odd to be wandering about wondering how many fans had done the same awesome/awkward dance with the place as I.

Date: 2010-04-12 10:27 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] fmanalyst.livejournal.com
Beautifully written. And
And that's not about Torchwood, that's about stories. And texture. And the way words are the bare, miserable edge of narrative.
- YES.

Date: 2010-04-22 03:09 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
Thank you.

Date: 2010-04-12 10:29 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] byzantienne.livejournal.com
I never quite know what to say to some of your posts.

The ones that make me jealous of your ability to articulate what it's like to live in the hidden and connotative world, where meaning sometimes -- usually -- hurts.

And is nevertheless always present.

Date: 2010-04-13 07:49 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
Thank you. It was really important to me that I get this one right, and it surprised me in the end that I was able to.

Date: 2010-04-12 10:32 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wcg.livejournal.com
Thanks so much for writing this. You were definitely in your writing groove today. It's such beautiful prose, telling a deeply moving story.

Date: 2010-04-13 11:53 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
And thank you. It's kinda weird shit to talk about, and yet I'd hate to do it badly.

Also: your icon is win.

Date: 2010-04-12 11:48 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] humascot97.livejournal.com
You are the person I wish I could be.

Date: 2010-04-13 12:00 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
It's not all that (says my general, ongoing, mostly celiac-based distress), but truly, thank you.

Date: 2010-04-13 12:08 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cookiedough.livejournal.com
I've been there myself, but this made me cry pretty bad.

The Tesco you mention, is that the "bananas are far more interesting" one, or something different/significant?
Edited Date: 2010-04-13 12:09 am (UTC)

Date: 2010-04-13 07:39 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
That's the one. Smaller than I expected but somehow still just right.

Date: 2010-04-13 12:18 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] valancy-joy.livejournal.com
Just have to drop a comment about how powerful and touching I found that last paragraph. The essence of one moment distilled down into one cat staring at the sky. Made me cry, that did. But then I have a lot of little solitary weeps. Anyway, not really the point except to thank you for that image ... and that I'm glad you got to go experience Cardiff!

Date: 2010-04-13 12:02 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
Thank you. I'm glad the cat worked. I mean, the cat worked on me when we saw it, but in re-reading this I was sorta like "I just drew a line from a dead fictional chwracter through my personal grief, to my assertions about a slum cat, really?" but that's how it happened. I'm glad other people could see it too.

Date: 2010-04-13 12:23 am (UTC)
dipping_sauce: (everyone is fond of owls)
From: [personal profile] dipping_sauce
"Although it'll all be, 'okay, but Grangetown is where Jack owned that fucked up house that got haunted and then started being all House of Leaves, so you might find that a little creepy.'"

Is that a Torchwood fanfic? It sounds awesome.

Date: 2010-04-13 07:38 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
It's the plot of one of the tie-in novels.

Date: 2010-04-13 12:31 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] firefly124.livejournal.com
Thank you for sharing this experience. As someone else said above, that closing paragraph just distills it all so perfectly.

Date: 2010-04-22 03:09 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
And thank you.

Date: 2010-04-13 02:29 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] darklingwoods.livejournal.com
I'm so happy you were able to visit and thank you for sharing so eloquently and honestly your experiences (as always a gift)

I had no idea till now your Patty wasn't really familiar with Torchwood, I always find that hard being somewhere emotional (like Gareth's Commentary at Hurricane Who) with a friend who isn't in fandom.

Love your tale of the buttons, really perfect, *nods*

Date: 2010-04-13 07:46 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
Thank you.

While Patty and I met in fandom, not this fandom, and other than endless info by osmosis, she's very much not of the Whoniverse.
Edited Date: 2010-04-13 07:46 am (UTC)

Someday I'll make it over there.

Date: 2010-04-13 06:43 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] itcamefromjapan.livejournal.com
Thank you so much for sharing this with us.

Re: Someday I'll make it over there.

Date: 2010-04-13 12:03 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
And thank you.

Like all things of this nature, you'll wonder what you're doing when it doesn't hit you just right, right away, but it'll be worth it by the time it's done. I seem to do a lot of things like this (such as my whole Australia thing) and it's always been worth it.
Edited Date: 2010-04-13 12:03 pm (UTC)

Date: 2010-04-13 08:21 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dandelion-diva.livejournal.com
I love reading your dispatches from England.

Date: 2010-04-13 11:34 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
Thank you.

There will be more, and I still have to write up our visit to Kensington Palace
Edited Date: 2010-04-13 11:34 am (UTC)

Date: 2010-04-13 11:54 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] liminalia.livejournal.com
"the people who are kindest to me are those who help me give myself permission to be as acutely permeable as I am."

Yes. Gods do I get that.

Date: 2010-04-14 01:22 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curriejean.livejournal.com
That was a really beautiful read.

All you fan folks pilgrimize Cardiff for whatever reasons, and then I don't have to. Seems like all the best writers are travellers.

Date: 2010-04-22 03:09 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
Thanks! And it's weird. I think all the fan folks who go there must do what I did in the peering at everyone and wondering if they're a fan, if they know way. It was a frigging weird experience.

Date: 2010-04-14 02:06 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] don-negro.livejournal.com
We don't really, really love a lot of the same things (some, obviously), but as this piece makes clear, in the strength of it's evocation and the obvious effort of will it took to make that evocation true, those things that we love we love the same way, and for most of the same reasons.

This will probably sound very weird, so I'll just trust that you get it: I'm proud of you for going, and seeing and being there. And for knowing all the good reasons not to, and doing it anyway.

Date: 2010-04-14 08:21 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
I do get it. Thanks.

Date: 2010-04-18 07:16 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] natf.livejournal.com
I love your writing "style"! This is all wistful and happy and sad and chilling and warm and … perfect.

Date: 2010-04-22 03:08 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
Thanks, it was important to me to get this one right, no matter how self-indulgent.

Date: 2011-03-03 04:54 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] fiwen1010.livejournal.com
*One year late* I'm preparing for my third trip to Cardiff at the moment. I've seen it in the height of summer when it was so hot and sunny I got sunburn, and I've seen it in the middle of winter when the sky was just as clear and I got drunk and laid down on frost-rimed grass and watched the stars. No idea what it will hold for me this time, but I suspect I'll cry. I usually do in Cardiff.

Date: 2011-03-03 06:30 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
I found Cardiff to be painfully bleak in my experience there this winter, but I was not prepared for the level of darkness. Axial tilt, not good (and have a whole theory about how everyone who works for Trchwood is the way they are not because of top secret, dangerous job, but because of seasonal depression). That said, getting stuck on the plass in a snow storm totally alone was about the greatest experience ever.

Date: 2011-03-03 07:36 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] fiwen1010.livejournal.com
It's further south than I am now, so it didn't make a difference. Possibly because I already have seasonal depression to a degree, and possibly because I was high on Barrowman and drunk on fairly decent cider. It will be interesting to go back and look at it in a "this is a cultural tourism location, this is what it had, this is what it's doing with it, this is what else it could do with it, this is excellent cake" kind of way. And I'm already collecting Groupon vouchers to be able to do stuff I wouldn't be able to otherwise.

Even if the bloody Doctor Who exhibition is closing before I get there.

Date: 2011-03-05 11:25 pm (UTC)
azurelunatic: Axial tilt is the reason for the season. (Festive red & green text; diagram of Earth's axial tilt.) (axial tilt)
From: [personal profile] azurelunatic
This makes perfect sense, says the Alaskan.

Date: 2011-03-05 11:28 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rm.livejournal.com
I think of myself as someone who doesn't have seasonal depression, but after a month in Switzerland, which is somewhat darker than the US, and then 10 days in Cardiff, I was MESSED UP. It really shattered any fantasies I may have had about Patty and I living in the UK at any point.

Date: 2011-03-04 10:55 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bugeyedmonster.livejournal.com
Re-reading this. Someday I'll make it to the UK. There are so many places I want to see there. So many fandom possibilities. From Dorothy L Sayers, to Arthur Conan Doyle to Beatrix Potter to William Blake to... argh... I might get bogged down.

Adding this post to memories, for some reason

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