less #ashtag and more what have you been up to in the UK then, rm?

[rm]

Yesterday, Patty slept in and then had to go to the final day of her conference, which meant I was on my own in London. While there are a lot of things we've done that I want to go back to and write about (including my new best friends at the fudge and risotto booths at the Friday fair at St. Katherine's dock), yesterday was pretty full, so this is that.

First, I went to Harrod's. I was sort of reluctant about this, because I figured, how interesting could it be? It's a department store, we have those in New York. But then, in looking up how to get there, I discovered their lengthy code of conduct and in going there also discovered that the building is like a damn castle.

So I took the tube to Knightsbridge, and then of course, walked the wrong direction. Unlike other wealthy areas we have visited which felt very boring to me, this one felt a lot more comfortable -- the scale was right, and I suppose I felt comfortable between the Madison Avenue store vibe and the Embassy vibe. So I wandered around for a while actually stumbling on the Icelandic Embassy in the process. No one was protesting the volcano outside,in case you were wondering or anything.

Finally, I found Harrod's (although not before passing my beloved Zara -- their women's clothes fit me PERFECTLY and make me look like a movie star; also for Whoniverse fans not in the know, they are also the source of Ianto's suits). I felt really uncomfortable at first. My hair was poofy (I hate that) and I wasn't dressed well and I didn't feel like I belonged. But faking rich is as much about how you carry yourself as what you wear, so I got it on and got on with it.

Oh my god, the food halls. It's like nothing I've ever seen. I thought, at first, the tea and chocolate hall was it, but then there was the fruit and vegetable hall and the candy all and the fish and meats hall and it goes on and on and on and on and is just completely ridiculous. I got Patty and I a few small things, and then went on to examine other areas of the store.

I went up to the boy's department to see about ties. My god, if I'd had my bank card with me (yeah, that's still not resolved and may not be resolvable until we get home), I'd have bought at least one. But 40 quid for a children's tie? Ouch. On the other hand -- beautiful. Beautiful fabrics and patterns and colors and textures and so much more of a choice than in the US, and pink and purples and reds (Ianto cosplayers take note, what seems like Ianto's remarkable fashion sense seems to be quite ordinary men's fashion in the UK) and I wanted it all. Perhaps most bizarre however was the seven-year-old boy who was touching the ties and considering them with the same level of seriousness as myself while I was there. He looked at me as if I were very odd.

Next, I went downstairs to the stationers level. You know, because I need to look at pens that cost four figures and cufflinks and expensive gaming sets. Ah, the luxuries of men, and I do hate moving through such spaces by doing the "I'm shopping for a gift, don't you know" thing, even in my head. I never know if I am more afraid of being caught out as a boy or as not enough of one.

Finally, I managed to steel myself for walking through the men's fashion area. As I say above, these things are hard for me, but my god, I had no intention of leaving London without touching all the things that will never fit me. So I did that and it was, as you might expect, about a hundred thigns I'm not actually going to talk about here.

Then I did that thing I do, where I say, "well, let's just strike out in a different direction and there's bound to be a tube stop eventually." Emphasis on eventually, my friends.

Before finding one I managed to stumble into both the Victoria and Albert Museum, which has an exquisite courtyard (see photos below) and the science museum, which I went to solely because there was a picture of the plane (pictured below) on a poster in the window and it seemed like a decent idea to go sit under it for a while.

Most bizarre thing about the science museum? The very British guy wearing an American astronaut outfit from the moon landing era, explaining what it's like to be in space to kids. Yeah, no. So weird.




The courtyard at the Victoria and Albert museum


A plane to sit under

Comments

[51stcenturyfox.livejournal.com]

I'm sorry you're still stranded, but happy you have a guest room to stay in.

I. LOVE. Harrods. They have an art gallery! And musical instruments! And leather desk blotters that cost $4k!

Did you find the pub near the men's section? I always drink in there after shopping (but not buying anything).

Liberty is a good store, too. The building is awesome. The shirts rule.

NYC has my other fave place to shop (where I also don't buy anything) ABC Carpet and Home.

[neadods.livejournal.com]

Another vote for Liberty. Not only do they have the charm of having been made out of an old battleship, but I've never had such friendly, charming service anywhere. Unlike Harrods or Fortnum & Mason (both of which are very Aware of their reputation) Liberty quite bluntly will do anything at all to make you want to give them money. (And - they'll take any currency. I've found that handy as I start to run low on pounds but still have the emergency dollar stash.)

[gummitch.livejournal.com]

All of the above seconded. Thirded even.

Also, it's handy for Savile Row. You are planning to go to Savile Row, aren't you?

[rm.livejournal.com]

See my above issues about my life as a boy, but yes.

[eac.livejournal.com]

I can't remember if I've already said this (sleep deprivation makes me forgetful), but it's really interesting hearing you write about places I've been in London. James and I went in early 2003, and we did stop in at Harrods, and the V&A (which I'd never leave if I could get away with it).

FWIW (since you're in London longer than anticipated) I remember the Dickens House Museum as being fun, and there's a walking tour of the Jack the Ripper thing that was also rewarding. Also, the Foundling Hospital was closed when we were there, but seems to be reopened now: http://www.foundlingmuseum.org.uk/

Mostly, though I just wore through my boots (literally) walking all over the place for 3 days straight....

[eumelia.livejournal.com]

Oh I love all the places you've visited!

Oh, London!

I love the V&A, they had a fashion exhibition there a few years ago, but I could never remember if it was a permanent thing or something they took out of the basements for the summer.

[rednwhiterose.livejournal.com]

You think the halls at Harrod's are awesome now..you should've seen it about 12 years ago before it was bought and remodeled. They use to be downstairs in the "basement" and...OMG...it was amazing.

[(Anonymous)]

If you're in the area, maybe you could check out Fortnum & Mason along Picadilly. It's much smaller than Harrod's but it has a more upscale feel to it. Red carpets and chandeliers (if I remember correctly). They do have some interesting products.

[thatwordgrrl.livejournal.com]

Their tea selection is just divine!

[gummitch.livejournal.com]

Also the chocolates in the food hall

[neadods.livejournal.com]

F&M Chocolossus biscuits are fabulous... and if you know anyone who knits, the tin they come in makes a good needleholder.

[anterastilis.livejournal.com]

I am taking lots of mental notes about your London trip - I'll be in London for 2.5 weeks in September. It'll be my first time there and I cannot wait!

[sunhawk.livejournal.com]

Harrods was so weird, I totally didn't know about the code of conduct AND we were bad in there by eating a cupcake while directly seated under a sign that politely asked that you not eat your purchases in the Food Hall XD Also, the Red Velvet cupcake I had was alright but perhaps overhyped to me :X

My picture of that plane looks almost identical! LOL

[thatwordgrrl.livejournal.com]

When Himself and I went to London a few years ago (his first trip), I insisted we go to Harrods.

"but what's the big deal about a department store," says he.

"Aha, you say that NOW," say I.

We walk into the Food Halls. He looks at me and whispers "Is there any possible way we could smuggle home one of everything."

I say nothing, but give him a SmugLook.

[sparkindarkness.livejournal.com]

Harrods? Aie they charge for the air in there!

I never realised Ianto's outfit was supposed to be odd or unusual :) I have many of the same ties :)

[weirdquark]

Oh, man, I can't believe I didn't remember this until now: the London branch of the Imperial War Museum. I didn't manage to go when I was in London, but my roommate told me about their WWI trenches exhibition, which sounds amazing. Did anyone else tell you about this? Someone should have.

[isil-helyanwe.livejournal.com]

The trenches exhibition is excellent, but I should mention also genuinely harrowing. They don't let under-12s in because it's too horrible.

[feyandstrange.livejournal.com]

I do miss Harrods. I hear it isn't the same (above comment re: remodeling), but Harrods!

Liberty is also lovely, both for shirts and if you have any interest in patterns and design. Tie silk and the like. Delicious.

If you go by the US Embassy at all, I shall mention that the statue there of Washington is in fact on a square yard of American soil; at the time of his installation, the Brits didn't want him on theirs.

I am also totally amused at the idea of protesting the Icelandic embassy about the volcano. I'm thinking someone forgot to make nice to the Icelandic elves myself.

[editrx.livejournal.com]

I adore Harrods. At one point I even had a Harrods card -- it's probably a good thing I have no idea what happened to it. The V&A is one of my favorite museums in London, bar none. The rotating exhibits are almost always interesting, and the static ones just as much -- I can easily lose a day in there.

Did you get any of the chocolates?

[austengirl.livejournal.com]

The swarms emerging from the tube entrance by Harrods usually put me off wanting to go inside, but the food hall is definitely a marvel. Maybe I'll go next time I'm in London.

Liberty's is well worth a wander around if you do end up making your way towards Regent Street/Carnaby street. The building is beautiful and charmingly jumbled up inside.

[isil-helyanwe.livejournal.com]

Oh that astronaut guy has been there for at least eight years. I can remember going to see him when I was about ten and the question that all the little children - including myself - wanted answered was 'how do you go to the toilet in space?'

Also, there's nothing like a trip to Harrods to make one feel out of place.